• Ilkal Sari / Ilkal Seere is a traditional sari of Karnataka.
• It derives its name from Ilkal town, Bagalkot district.
• Ilkal was an ancient weaving centre; weaving is believed to have started around the 8th century AD.
• About 20,000 people in Ilkal are engaged in sari weaving.
• Weaving received patronage from local chieftains around Bellary.

Unique Features

• Most important speciality is the TOPE TENI technique.
• Tope Teni: Body warp and pallu warp are joined using a series of loops.
• This technique is considered exclusive to Ilkal.
• KONDI technique is used for weft insertion with three shuttles.
• The pallu is traditionally called Tope Teni Seragu.
• Traditional pallu pattern generally has:
  • 3 solid red portions
  • 2 white portions in between.
• Red or maroon generally dominates the border.
• Border width is generally about 2.5–4 inches in the traditional description.

Materials & Yarn

• Body: Usually cotton warp.
• Border and pallu: Art silk warp or pure silk.
• Traditional yarn combinations:
  • Silk × Silk
  • Silk × Cotton
  • Art silk × Cotton
• Saris may be made from:
  • Cotton
  • Cotton + silk
  • Pure silk

Designs

• Main body designs:
  • Stripes
  • Rectangles
  • Squares
• Traditional borders include:
  • Chikki
  • Gomi / Ilkal Dadi
  • Jari
  • Gaadi/Gadidadi
• Other border classification mentioned:
  • Gomi
  • Paraspet – Chikki Paras & Dodda Paras
  • Gaadi
  • Jari
• Gayathri is a recently modified traditional design.
• Kyadgi design may be woven into the middle portion of the Tope Teni Seragu.

Pallu & Kasuti

• The pallu commonly contains temple-tower designs.
• Traditional pallu is generally red silk with white patterns.
• Pallu-end motifs include:
  • Hanige – comb
  • Koti Kammli – fort ramparts
  • Toputenne – jowar
  • Rampa – mountain range
• Kasuti embroidery is a distinctive feature mentioned for Ilkal saris.
• Kasuti motifs include:
  • Palanquins
  • Elephants
  • Lotuses
• Traditional colours include:
  • Pomegranate red
  • Brilliant peacock green
  • Parrot green
• Bridal saris may use Giri Kumukum colour.

Production

• Mainly produced on pit looms.
• Can also be woven using powerlooms.
• Weaving is largely a household activity, with active participation of women.
• A handloom sari takes about 7 days to weave.
• Traditional lengths:
  • 6 yards
  • 8 yards
  • 9 yards
• Solid and contrasting borders are produced.

⭐ Exam Quick Revision

• Ilkal Sari → Ilkal, Bagalkot, Karnataka
• Ancient weaving centre → Since ~8th century AD
• Main speciality → Tope Teni
• Tope Teni → Joining body warp + pallu warp by loops
• Weft technique → Kondi
• Kondi → Three shuttles
• Main body → Stripes, rectangles, squares
• Traditional borders → Chikki, Gomi, Jari, Gaadi
• Pallu → Temple-tower designs
• Traditional pallu → Red silk + white patterns
• Traditional lengths → 6, 8 & 9 yards
• Main loom → Pit loom
• Handloom production time → ~7 days